
Ozark Mountain Briars 2006
Pipes
A Few Pipe Smoking and Pipe Care Tips
To start out let me say I'm no "expert" on this subject and I won't be winning any pipe smoking contests any time soon! But I can relate the basics and give a few tips and tricks that work for me. Pipe smoking and all that go with it are a personal preference thing. I've found that although there are a ton of sites that offer tips on smoking, and nearly every pipe shop is quick with their "sure fire" method, its all an individual thing. What works for me may not work for you. You've got to find the way of packing, lighting and smoking that best suits you, the pipes, and the tobacco you smoke. And its part of the fun of smoking, getting to experiment!
Pipe Care- The most important thing to the longevity and satisfaction with your pipe is Keep It Clean! And give it a Rest! The pipe is like the filter on the end of a cigarette. THe briar traps moisture, tars and other gunk from the tobacco and must be allowed to dry and air out between bowls. The longer you can let a pipe rest, the better it will smoke in the future. I suggest at least a day between bowls in one pipe. If you have a large collection (like Greg Pease, who lets his rest for 3 weeks!) you can let the pipe sit for longer than a day. The only exception to my "once a day" rule is during the breakin period for a new pipe. I let a new pipe sit for a minimum of 3 days between the first 5-10 bowls.
After smoking a bowl of tobacco, dump out the ashes and pass a pipe cleaner through to remove the excess moisture in the airway. Some people swear by a pipe stand that holds the pipe in an upright position to allow any moisture to drain into the bowl. I've found this really isn't necessary, although a safe storage option. But most of the moisture will come out of the stem and shank by passing through a pipe cleaner. Just put the pipe somewhere safe with good air circulation and it will be fine! I also find it isn't necessary to remove the stem every time. Just do so when the pipe needs a good cleaning after every few bowls. Don't ever remove the stem until the pipe is cool! All sorts of nasty breaks and cracks can result. Also when dumping out the ashes, hold the pipe by the base of the bowl, never by the stem or shank, more nasty breaks can occur this way too! Also, if you prefer to use Briar Pipe Wipe to keep your pipes shiny, do so sparingly! Spray a small amount on a soft cloth and wipe down the pipe. Using too much or spraying directly on the pipe will result in a waxy buildup!
Pipe Break-in- The break-in period of a pipe is crucial to further rewards later on. Usually this period is only a few bowls and well worth the effort. Pipes with a well-formed cake will smoke cooler and stay lit better. The cake of carbon on the bowl insulates the briar from the heat of the burning tobacco so the pipe will not absorb as much heat. The heat will stay more in the ember and the pipe will stay lit much easier!
Pre carbonization of the bowl is not a substitute for a break in period. It will lessen the time involved breaking in a new pipe by providing a rough surface for the carbon layer to build on, but pre-carb layer is so thin it doesn't provide enough of a barrier to insulate the bowl.
My break-in method- My break-in method is fairly standard. The first 3 or 4 bowls I smoke in a new pipe I'll only fill the bowl about half full. Several relights may be necessary during the break-in period, which is fine! The two things that need to be stressed, Smoke Slowly! and Smoke the Tobacco to The Bottom of The Bowl! Take care not to get the bowl too hot, or it might crack! And smoke to the bottom of the bowl to ensure a good carbon layer over the entire chamber. Also another crucial point, let the pipe Rest! The raw briar of a new pipe will soak up more moisture than a well seasoned pipe. I suggest a minimum of 3 days rest for a new pipe. A week is better.
Usually after 3 or 4 bowls in a new pipe I will gradually add more tobacco when I pack it. However it is still a good idea to smoke slowly and let the pipe rest for a minimum of 3 days between bowls at least until you've smoked 8-10 bowls. By then the carbon layer should be built up sufficiently to keep the bowl cooler and the pipe should stay lit much better. After 8-10 bowls, I'll usually put the pipe into my regular rotation. Keep in mind it is a new pipe, so watch for the bowl getting too hot for another few smokes. But you should have a pipe that will offer years of service!
Pipe Packing- This is one thing I have found to be a very individual thing. I've read and tried all the packing methods with varying results. Experiment and find the best one for you. Every smoker is different and needs to pack the pipe differently to suit their smoking style. If you have problems with tongue bite, or your pipe won't stay lit, try a looser pack.
Here's my packing method: Sprinkle tobacco loosely into the bowl until it is completely filled, then gently tamp down the tobacco so the bowl is about 2/3's full. Sprinkle loosely another layer of tobacco until the bowl is full again, and gently tamp down to just below the rim. Sprinkle on some small bits of tobacco and gently tamp to rim level (the small bits on the top help in lighting the pipe!). Light evenly, tamp lightly, light evenly again if needed and enjoy! As the smoke volume decreases, lightly tamp down ashes and continue. This method has eliminated tongue bite for me. Will it work for you? Can't say, but try it and see! I am a quick smoker so more densely packed the pipe, the hotter it burns and the more it bites.
Don't be afraid to relight a pipe! If you aren't in a pipe smoking contest, what does it matter if the pipe goes out???? Relight and go on!!! Sure, we'd all like to light the pipe and smoke it to the bottom of the bowl, but that doesn't always happen. There are no pipe police that will come and arrest you for a few relights!